Day 4; Part 1: A Failed Rand Repair and Success with my La Sportiva Venoms

The Bad News – climbing shoe and rand repair

So, with a little help from my fellow climbers at RockClimbing.com’s Gear Heads Forum I was able to put some ideas to the test in regards to repairing the Rand on my 5.10 Newtons. I was told some ideas for repairing my climbing shoes that included:

1. A complete resole of the pair – they are five years old and it would cost atleaste $50 to do this

2. Shoe Goo – Based on a vote in the forum, this was ruled out

3. Barge Cement – a few people stood behind this as being the best glue to work with

4. Use a bicycle tube patch kit – This idea was recommended by the place I would send my shoes too for a resole.

I combined a few elements from the suggestions and came up with my own way of trying the patch. Based on the excellent information I received for using Barge Cement, I choose to use this glue with a combination of rubber from an old bicycle tube. As you can see below my steps included applying the glue, cutting a piece of the tube rubber and then using kitchen clips as clamps in order to achieve my desired outcome.

Repairing the rand on my climbing shoe with rubber cement and a bike tube

Rand Repair with Rubber Cement

Using Kitchen Clips as Clamps- Who said you only needed duct tape to be Macgyver

Rubber

Unfortunately, after my first climb this morning, the rubber and glue came off immediately.

The tear in my 5.10 Newtons after I failed at repairing them

Now that I have a gaping hole in the rand on my old climbing shoes and a resole will cost me about $50, I have decided that I will look into getting a new pair of shoes that can handle multi-pitch routes like these did. After having climbed in the 5.10 Newtons for over 2 seasons, I would definitely say that I was satisfied with their performance and how comfortable they were. I am sad to see them become second string for the moment. However I am very excited about what I have tentatively replaced them with.

The Good News -Breaking in my La Sportiva Venoms and climbing with a great climbing group from Meetup.com

Today was an extremely fun and eventful day climbing with The Santa Barbara Outdoor Adventure Meetup group climbing at Santa Barbara’s Gibraltar rock. After my makeshift Macgyver patch failed, I was left with a choice to keep climbing in my Newtons or climb in my La Sportive Venoms that have had a rough break in process. I was glad with the choice I made and, after climbing on the Venoms for the remainder of the day I was encouraged by how well the shoes performed. Although I was left in a little discomfort after each climb, I was stoked at the progress I was making at breaking them in. With those shoes showing signs that they will work out, I was able to enjoy the problems we were working on.

Successes and Failures

Failures

  • Failblog worthy rand repair

Successes

Thank you for coming along!

En-Are

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Comments
3 Responses to “Day 4; Part 1: A Failed Rand Repair and Success with my La Sportiva Venoms”
  1. Gary says:

    you needed to grind down the old rand in a rectangle the same size of the patch. Grinding till you hit leather of course. This way you are gluing the patch to the shoe, not to the old rand. Also, you need to sand with 200grit sandpaper the patch and the shoe to scuff the surfaces. You also need to let the barge cement dry on both mating surfaces for 2 hours before applying the patch and need to apply a heat gun or electric stovetop to the barge cement to heat it up just before you apply the patch. The patch also needs to be pounded with a hammer (the inside of the shoe filled with a block of wood as a backing) in order to get a good seal. The pressure needs to be done with a c-clamp iron vise which will put on much more pressure than your plastic clips. Your patch was applied over the top of the old rand – which meant it was not flush with the old rand and would have all weight applied directly onto it as it is sticking out further than the old rand. Lots of mistakes were made I hope you try again but do it right.

  2. Trevor says:

    I think the patch would have to be on the inside and maybe add some stitching to keep the hole closed (like a suture). Or just wear the new shoes. It was great climbing with you.

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  1. […] feet and I kind of gave up on them. With that said, it has been one month since that morning and my unconventional efforts to break in my shoes seem to be paying […]



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