Day 12; Bouldering At Painted Cave Road

The Painted Cave Road Bouldering Area

So, I just had a new neighbor move into the apartment above mine and it worked out perfectly that he so happened to be a rock climber. SO STOKED. My whole dilemma of finding partners in Santa Barbara has now turned into a fiesta of people I can go climbing with. Our planning culminated in a killer evening of bouldering that marked Day 12 of my journey to get back into rock climbing.

After trading a few text messages and e-mails, when I really should have been working, Jeremy and I decided to drive up HWY 154 in Santa Barbara to Painted Cave Road to do some evening bouldering. The bouldering at Painted Cave Road is phenomenal. From problems starting at V0 with a few V6’s and 7’s, it is one of the best spots in the area. Not to mention that you cannot beat the accessibility. Two opposing boulders on either side of painted cave road and one just a short walk down make this one of the most accessible and heavily used bouldering areas in Santa Barbara.

The most bodacious boulder at Painted Cave is the Trojan Boulder as it overhangs the road and is 15 feet of pure awesomeness. The boulder has some great problems all around its circumference, including a variety of problems ranging from numerous V0’s to a technical V7 with the face providing some of the most aesthetic bouldering in the area. Directly across from the Trojan is the Hallway Boulder and you can see Cracked Boulder about 50 yards down the road in the picture above.

After the sun went down, we pulled out the headlamps and joined the locals – a combination of ants, spiders and bats – and finished up a few of the problems we were working on.

To sum up the evening, I on-sighted some V2’s and two projects that I will be working on are Heavy Traffic -V3 and Old Soft Hsu – V3. Both will provide some fun work for me the next time I head up that way.

Tonight, I am planning on heading up to Fire Crags again for some sport climbing laps.



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