Day 50 (only a guess); The endless supply of satisfaction when you climb

Falling at Fire Crags - Who gets a shot like this?

Ok, this may not be exactly true, there are definitely things in life much more satisfying than climbing. For example, last week when I was thinking about the happiest day of my life, right after I had just redpointed my first 5.11a, everything paled in comparison to the day I got married. Now with the expectation that I will have a son in less than 2 weeks, I wonder where climbing will be situated on my priorities list.

For now, I am becoming more content with the fact that I will not be able to climb as much as I have been for a few months – maybe even years (oh no). With only a couple weeks to go and the countdown nearing its end (October 27th), I am attempting to get my climbing affairs in order and finish all my main projects. On Saturday, I was able to climb with a good friend Darrell (whose wife was my Marketing Professor) and complete a project I had been working on for a few weeks at Fire Crags. The climb is called Grib Dat Hole and it is an excellent sport climb about 50 feet long that starts off with a nice V1 boulder problem that leads directly into some technical 5.9/10 climbing at the top. A couple weeks ago I came close on a redpoint attempt but fell during the moves at the second crux.

Falling at Fire Crags - Who gets a shot like this?

Resolved to finish this climb before my son was born, I headed up to Fire Crags with Darrell and after warming up, I went for it and executed perfectly, rather intuitively I might add. During the climb I managed to keep my cool and was able to relax before heading out onto the upper face, by the time I started nearing the top, I became elated that I had just surpassed my previous attempts and I would have no problems getting to the anchors. With Grib Dat Hole under my belt (see F below), I moved onto my first lead attempt of Finger Fit, a 5.11b to the right of my newly vanquished climb (See G below). Although a failed attempt, I made some good progress on the route. I do not think I will have enough time to finish this project soon so I am going to revisit it in the future.

Grib Dat Hole - F | Finger Fit - G

The final must do project I am working on was the subject of a blog post recently shared by my good friend Tom Shank titled Emerson you will stand, I will surmount:

Emerson you will stand, I will surmount

Well, this past Sunday I surpassed my expectations and completed the second half of the current project: The lengthy [V4] traverse of the Emerson boulder. At this point I can’t say that tomorrow’s planned attempt with [Enare] will be successful, but the chances are good for the ol’ chap and me…Emerson shall be surmounted soon enough my friends, I improve with every attempt. If there is one thing that I appreciate in climbing, its the noticeable progress. The previous crux is not passable with little emotional strain.

While the name of this traverse is alluding me, if we are successful in our efforts, I will have accomplished more than I had anticipated when I decided to get back into climbing in February, and I can spend the next few months of sleepless baby loving bliss less consumed by thinking about these projects.

See you later!

Enare

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  1. […] next goal was to push into the 11′s and soon I redpointed Grib Dat Hole (5.11a) and continued to project on Finger Fit (5.11b).This same week, Tom Shank and I completed a 35 foot V4 boulder traverse we had been working on up […]



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